The DIY Mod Project: 

PART II: Installing the Mods

The first picture shows the metal plate sanded and repainted with a semi-gloss black paint. Reinstall the plate using the leftover screws, or if they are corroded, take one to the hardware store and get a new set. They should be non-magnetic.

The next set of pictures show the underside of the plate and the installation of the new stainless steel studs with stainless steel washers and thrust bearings. You install the studs using the reverse method of removal of the older studs. That is, you screw on one nut, and then another after that. You tighten the second nut with your adjustable wrench as shown. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you may break the stud receptacle.

Here is the underside of the plate with the three new studs installed, as well as the replacement Hurst motor. (See DIY page for how to replace the motor.)

The next set of photos show proper installation of the springs and the terpolymer subchassis. Carefully note the order of the grommets, washers, and thrust bearings. (Also, please note I am using a set of Merrill springs (white) here as I was temporarily out of the AR springs. These springs are firmer, generally used for heavier arms.)

Once the terpolymer subchassis is installed, I completed installation of the Rega arm with VTA adjuster. Since the subchassis is predrilled, this is incredibly simple, the matter of tightening a single nut.

Once the subchassis and arm are installed, follow Tim Bailey's guide to tuning the suspension located on the Vinyl Nirvana DIY page.

Above is the complete table with acrylic platter, lead mat, and vintage Merrill record weight. The Rega RB-250 features two upgrades: a Michell VTA adjuster and an Expressimo Audio "The Heavyweight" counterweight. I also replaced the cheap aluminum pulley with a co-polymer 33 rpm one. It simply slips into place.